A deserted paradise

Breakfast at Finca Escondida, a guesthouse facing Palomino Beach on the Caribbean coast, right at the foot of the Sierra Nevada in the La Guajira region. The servings are generous: coffee, fresh fruits, cereals, and milk. It is so quiet. From my table, I can see the Caribbean Sea between two other tables occupied by tourists: a young German family with a small child and two German girls in their early twenties.

The biggest attraction in this part of Colombia is Tayrona National Natural Park. The park is a nature reserve known for its natural beauty and biodiverse rainforests. The Palomino River flows down from the snow-capped peaks of the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta into the Caribbean Sea, delineating a natural border between La Guajira Department in the north and Magdalena Department in the south.

There is absolutely nothing to do here except walk along the long stretch of coastline. After breakfast, I pack a small backpack, head to the beach, and walk north. To my left, the sea; to my right, the jungle — both extending toward the horizon as far as the eye can see. After around 45 minutes, I reach an area of lagoons and river mouths, some of which are connected to the sea. Salt and fresh water reaching toward each other. Some of these river mouths are so deep that, in order to cross them, you need to get wet up to your waist.

I turn around and head south. In the distance, I see the German family, their child running wildly into and away from the waves. It is such an idyllic sight. His laughter and screams reverberate through every element of this deserted paradise with such intensity that I wonder whether I should have children.