Luang Prabang je t'aime

There were two things I’d heard about before coming to Lao PDR (Lao People’s Democratic Republic). The first was: “It’s so laid back it will make Thailand look like New York.” I realized this as soon as I reached the Thai–Lao border and needed to get a visa. I was worried because I didn’t have any passport photos with me (you usually need two for a visa). After filling out the immigration papers, I expressed my concern: “I’m afraid I have a problem. I don’t have any pictures with me. Do you know where I can take some?” The officer smiled kindly and replied, “Two USD and we’ll take photocopies of your passport picture.” There’s a clever English joke often used by foreigners when referring to Lao PDR: “Lao People Don’t Rush.”

The second thing I’d been told was: “You will love Luang Prabang, I’m sure of it.” I didn’t know it beforehand, but Luang Prabang is a UNESCO World Heritage city — which in itself is usually enough to guarantee wonder, but there’s more. The city sits on a peninsula where the Mekong and Nam Tha rivers meet. Hilltop Buddhist stupas and lush green mountains shape its skyline. On the streets, “Bonjour” replaces “Hello,” and “Baguette avec Nutella” kicks “Bacon and Eggs” off the menus. There is undeniably a French glamour in the air. Narrow, paved roads reveal the architectural heritage of French colonization, where guesthouses, cafés, bakeries, restaurants, and art galleries hide beneath layers of tropical vegetation.

Laos definitely slows your heartbeat down, and after two months of chaotic traffic, noodle soups, sticky rice, and watery coffee, I guess there is nothing better to do than sit in a French café, order a latte, and read a good paperback.